It’s pretty interesting to look back on trends, including the case sizes of watches. Not all that long ago, we were in the height of the ‘big watch’ trend; it has only been in the last few years that we have seen an industry wide movement towards vintage-inspired watches with more modest case diameters. However, despite a more recent movement away from oversized watches, modern watches are still quite a lot bigger than their vintage counterparts.
A prime example of this long-term movement towards larger cases can be seen by looking at Rolex watches throughout the years. For decades, the standard (non-sports) men’s watch was 36mm in diameter, while the standard ladies watch was 26mm in diameter. The first ‘oversized’ 41mm Datejust watches appeared during the height of the big watch trend in the form of the Datejust II; however, these were discontinued after a relatively short time in favor of the slightly more refined (but still 41mm) Datejust 41 watches.
Today, despite a slight industry-wide dialing back in terms of overall wrist presence, Rolex watches still retain their larger (yet now more refined) case diameters that were first introduced during the height of the big watch era. Today there is still a 41mm Datejust, and the standard size for the Lady-Datejust is now 28mm. Additionally, both the Rolex Explorer and Explorer II now only exist in their larger 39mm and 42mm case sizes sizes, there is a new 42mm Yacht-Master, and the smallest Rolex Sea-Dweller currently has a case diameter of 43mm.
Vintage watches and more modest case sizes may be making a comeback, but Rolex seems to be sticking to their larger case sizes. Read on for another look at a piece from 5 years ago, back when everything was getting bigger and we were wondering if there was ever going to be a scaling back in sight.
Are Watches too Big? (Original 2014 Version)
The size of watches has dramatically increased over the past ten or fifteen years. In the 1990s, the typical size of a men’s watch was 37-39mm. There were larger watches before this, but they were typically sports watches, such as diving watches, that needed the extra space. By the early 2000s, the size of some watches had grown to 41-44mm. Again, by the mid-2000s the size had again grown from 45-48mm wide, with some being even larger! Though there is no official size being denoted as “too big” or “too small,” watch enthusiasts tend to think of a men’s watch that is 40mm or bigger as “oversized” while 40mm and under is “average.”
Upward Trend
Why was there a sudden increase in watch size? Watch historians, collectors and enthusiasts seem to think that as watch case and dial designs became more complex in the late 1990s and on into the 2000s, the size of the watch case and dial increased to accommodate these luxury watches. There was also an increasing desire for the wearers to show off the artistic and decorative value of their watches. When a watch is larger it is much easier to do this. Before, traditional watches were mostly used for telling the time. Thus, it makes sense that as complications become more popular, these larger watches did as well.
Women’s watches followed the Men’s watches trend and also increased in size. Today, a typical oversized Women’s watch measures 36-40mm wide. Nicknamed the “boyfriend” watch, these watches mimic the adoption of an oversized shirt belonging to one’s boyfriend. However, some women say they enjoy wearing larger watches because they relay dominance and security.
Finding Your Watch Size
Though larger watches have increased in popularity over the past few years, the decision to follow the trend really comes down to your own personal taste. However, there are some rules that you can use to determine if a watch is too big for your wrist, according to fashion, and if you should consider opting for a smaller size. Begin by trying on the watch to see if the lugs stick out past your wrist. Consider if your wrist is wide enough to offer space for the size of the watch. Sometimes oversized watches can be uncomfortable. Be sure to move your hand around to see if the watch’s lugs poke you. If your wrist is not wide enough or if the watch is uncomfortable, you may want to consider a smaller version.
Your wrist will ultimately determine which watch is the perfect fit. People with flatter wrists can wear larger watches. Conversely, those with more round wrists should opt for a smaller watch face.
If you have small wrists, a big watch can still work if it makes sense for the watch to be (and wear) big. Take the Seiko “Tuna” models, for example. Or the previously mentioned PloProf or the Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea.
Now, you might wonder, why a woman wants to wear a big watch. The answers are as varied as the myriad patterns of a kaleidoscope. Some find that larger watches exude a kind of authoritative flair, a sort of “I'm in charge here” vibe that pairs wonderfully with a power suit or even casual attire.
If we break it down to stereotypical categories, then anything under 37 mm diameter would be put into boxes such as “jewelry/elegant category” and “women's size watch”. Meanwhile, the rest are “men's size watches”. Watches above 46 mm are “oversized” and are mostly created for “flashy and very bold” outfits.
To choose the right size involves a little more math (but you can get away with eyeballing it). Look for a lug-to-lug distance that is about 75 to 95% of the width of your wrist. Another consideration is whether the lugs are flat or curved. This will play a role in how the watch lays on your wrist.
Most women's watches are between 6.75″-7″ and most men's watches are 7.5″-8″. The length of the strap is based on wrist circumference and can be divided in two – the tail (long) end and the buckle (short) end. That's why the strap length on watch straps is sometimes presented as 120/70mm.
The early 1920's Art Deco style watches were all petite beauties, and so this move may be inspired by the retro trend. Additionally, today's young women want diversity, choice, femininity and elegance. To paraphrase Alexandre Peraldi, Creative Design and Product Director of Baume & Mercier: Women want it all.
In the ever-evolving world of horology and fashion, trends come and go, others, but some endure the test of time. Enter the comeback of small watches, a trend that's captivating both men and women with its understated, timeless appeal.
The term 'oversized' might have declined in popularity but the trend for big watches is still very much a current style, with no sign of it disappearing just yet. New designs across many watch brands and manufacturers are still being released with large watch faces.
Historically, men's watches were between 34-36mm while women's watch sizes were even smaller. Today, the average men's wristwatch sizes are between 38-46mm. Anything smaller than 38mm is often found for women's watches, although that doesn't mean women can't wear larger watches.
Sometimes oversized watches can be uncomfortable. Be sure to move your hand around to see if the watch's lugs poke you. If your wrist is not wide enough or if the watch is uncomfortable, you may want to consider a smaller version.
Here are some suggested guidelines based on our own experiences: a six-inch wrist is generally considered “smaller,” so a case size in the range of 34mm to 38mm would be appropriate; an “average”-sized wrist, generally around 7 to 7 ½ inches, can accommodate a larger watch, from around 39mm to about 42mm or even 43mm.
It's simple: small wrist = watch between 34mm and 40mm, large wrist = watch from 38mm and up. In a nutshell, wrists that have a circumference of 16cm – 18cm are standard normal-sized wrists. Anything less is considered small and over 18cm are large.
I truly believe that a 36mm looks just as good on a slim wrist as it does a chunky one. They're also naturally timeless in their aesthetic and extremely comfortable to wear. They're not so small that they feel invisible, but they can effortlessly blend into those dressier occasions where needed.
A 44mm watch face is about 1.7” across, which is a good proportion for a 7-8” wrist size. So this is a fairly standard size for a men's watch: 44mm across.
Introduction: My name is Velia Krajcik, I am a handsome, clean, lucky, gleaming, magnificent, proud, glorious person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.
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